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| .Cotton Buffing Wheels |
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| ..You need to know all about Cotton Buffing Wheels ! |
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| FibraNEX® buffing and polishing wheels can be made out of a variety of materials including cotton, sisal, canvas, chamois, and more. All the buffing wheels we carry are made of cotton because of its long wear and consistency. |
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| LOOSE BUFFS |
| Loose cotton buffing wheels have a circle of stitches close to the center of the buffing wheel allowing the individual plies more freedom. These buffing wheels are very flexible and soft making them great for getting into hard-to-reach areas and applying a finish. Loose cotton buffing wheels should be used with either White Diamond or Red Rouge. Loose Buffs are used in the final buffing and coloring operation to attain either a high lustre or a satin finish. Sections of buffs are made up to the desired face corresponding to the surfaces to be polished on manual lathes. All unbleached muslin buffs can be ordered in a loose weave (60/60 or 68/72) for softness or a tighter weave (80/80 or 86/82) for durability. |
| SEWED BUFFS |
| Sewed Buffs are used for buffing and cutting on surfaces which are flat or accessible. Sewed buffs are held together by numerous rows of spiral sewing. Spacing between the rows along with material selection determine the firmness and hardness of each sections. The sections are built up on straight shafts to desired faces. |
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| Concentric Sewed Type Buffing Wheel |
| Each row is a completed circle of sewing. This type of sewing, is mostly used on Full Disc Buffs in the smaller diameter ranges. The work it will do is similar to the "loose buff", except that a few rows of concentric sewing will add firmness without sacrificing flexibility. |
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| Spiral Sewed Type Buffing Wheel |
| Spiral Sewn buffs are sewn spirally from the center of the buffing wheels to close to the edge. The stitching style makes these buffing wheels tough and great for cutting and course buffing. Spiral sewn buffing wheels generally should be used with either Black Emery or Brown Tripoli. |
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| JEWELERS BUFFS |
| These wheels are made to suit the buffing and polishing requirements of the jewelry industry in the production of costume jewelry. Other industries also use this buff for polishing small metallic and non-metallic parts. The wheels are made to standard specifications (i.e., diameter, ply, sewing) and have shellac centers for use on tapered spindles. Shellac and leather centers prevent the center hole from expanding without damaging the threads on the spindles. These buffs are available in 68/72, 80/80, or 86/82 unbleached muslin, 86/82 yellow treated or cotton flannel material. The sizes range from 50 mm. to 200 mm. diameter. All buffs are concentrically sewed. |
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| Razor Edge Buffs |
| Razor edge buffs are often the handiest item in the shop. The tapered form and thin "razor edge" makes it useful for polishing narrow, recessed areas where standard buffs are not applicable. The wheels are built up using various diameters of high grade material with tight stitching. They come standard with 1/4 concentric sewing and leather shellac centers. They are used on tapered spindles and are commonly found in the jewelry and medical/dental industries. |
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| SPECIAL BUFFS |
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Canton Flannel Buffs
There are many applications for using buffs made with Canton Flannel (Single Nap) material. Soft in nature, conventional style buffs sewn with 1/2" to 3/4" concentric sewing provide the craftsman a very flexible buff with some degree of body (as a result of the sewing). There are applications in Jewelry and Dental Buffing that are ideal for the use of a Canton Flannel buff. |
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| In non-metallic applications, Canton Flannel buffs are used in finishing wood products such as furniture and musical instruments. Buffs made with Canton Flannel for wood finishing are considered soft to medium cut buffs. Some wood polishers will have an additional step after using a Canton Flannel buff. |
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Dormet Flannel Buffs
Buffs made with domet (Double Nap) flannel material are considered to be the softest available. In conventional style buffs, they are primarily constructed in a loose buff form. Metallic applications for domet flannel buffs include brass and aluminum decorative products. Domet flannel buffs are used for final buffing with very fine rouge compounds.
For non-metalic products such as acrylics and plastics, these buffs are suggested where fine finishes are required. |
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| .Specifications : |
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Type |
Cloth |
Description |
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İşlem |
Stitches |
Dia. (mm.) |
Ply |
| J |
Woven |
% 100 Cotton |
30 / 30 |
Raw |
3 Stitches |
20 |
100 |
| 30 |
50 |
| 60 |
| 100 |
| 40 |
50 |
| 60 |
| 100 |
| 50 |
50 |
| 60 |
| 100 |
| 60 |
50 |
| 60 |
| 70 |
| 80 |
| 90 |
| 100 |
| Woven |
% 100 Cotton |
20 / 20 |
Orange
Yellow
Blue |
3 Stitches |
30 |
40 |
| 50 |
| 40 |
40 |
| 50 |
| 50 |
40 |
| 50 |
| 60 |
40 |
| 50 |
| 70 |
| 4 Stitches |
60 |
40 |
| 50 |
| 4 Stitches |
60 |
50 |
| 60 |
| COLORS |
. Orange = Soft .;. Yellow = Medium .;. Blue = Hard |
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| CHOOSING THE RIGHT BUFFING WHEEL ! |
| There are different types of wheels and these have different effects on the compound they are used with. For example, the SISAL wheel is a course "rope like" fiber, which frays out to make a sort of brush. These fibers have a very beneficial effect on scratched and rougher surfaces, almost stroking them smooth. When used with a course "EMERY" compound, they "cut" the metal down very rapidly. You could use this compound on a SPIRAL SEWN wheel and it would work, but the job would take much longer because the softer SPIRAL SEWN wheel is not going to thrash the metal so aggressively. |
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| As you progress through the buffing compounds, you will change your buffing wheel, ending up using the softest polishing wheel, the CANTON FLANNEL with the least abrasive BLUE or RED compound which only polishes, it has no cutting action. |
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| So, depending on the job in hand, you will determine which abrasive compound and wheel you are going to use first, then step down through the stages until YOU are satisfied with the results. |
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| Compounds are made from a mixture of fine abrasive fillers and a sort of greasy wax. The compound is melted, by friction heat, as the bar is pressed to the revolving wheel. This applies a thin layer of abrasive, "glued" onto the cloth wheel, making it similar to an emery paper, only much faster ! |
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| Do not apply the compound after the workpiece, or on its own. This wastes material and is much less efficient. |
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| By applying the material before the workpiece, you actually use the workpiece to force the compound into the buff. This is much less wasteful, more efficient and will actually speed up your buffing times. |
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| Apply small quantities of compound, by approx. 1/2 - 1 second applications to the wheel. |
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| When buffing plastics, it is preferable to use a loose cotton wheel and blue compound, but at a slower rate than normal. An old washing machine motor (1/8hp @ 1800 rpm) is ideal as the slower rpm lessens the chance of burning or melting the plastic. |
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| CUT AND POLISH MOTIONS |
| There are two basic buffing motions you should use. |
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1. CUT MOTION gives you : SMOOTH SURFACE, SEMI-BRIGHT & UNIFORM
The workpiece should be moved AGAINST the direction of the wheel, using a MEDIUM to HARD pressure. |
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| Polishing - This operation removes surface material, improving the surface and preparing it for buffing. This is generally a coarse operation involving sandpaper and/or coarse compounds. |
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| Cut Buffing - This is the preliminary step to “coloring” using a course buffing compound. This buffing operation removes scratches and makes the surface smoother. Black emery polishing compound with a spiral sewn buffing wheel is recommended for cutting down copper, brass, aluminum, steel, stainless steel, nickel, and iron. Brown tripoli buffing compound is not as course as black emery polishing compound but will cut and color copper, brass, and aluminum in one operation. Cutting down may produce a bright, satisfactory result and coloring may not be necessary. |
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2. COLOR MOTION gives you : BRIGHT, SHINY & CLEAN SURFACE
The workpiece should be moved TOWARD the direction of the wheel, using a MEDIUM to LIGHT pressure. |
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| Buffing - This operation makes the surface smooth producing a high luster and mirror finish if desired. This is done with the use of buffing wheels and buffing compounds. Buffing can be divided into two steps; cut buffing and color buffing. |
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| Color Buffing - This buffing operation brings out the maximum shine and produces a mirror like finish. Coloring can take place after “cutting down” or right-away if surface is smooth enough. Loose cotton buffing wheels are usually the best choice for coloring but spiral sewn buffing wheels can be used as well. Brown tripoli buffing compound is a double duty buffing compound and can be used for both coloring and cutting down. White rouge can be used to color chromium, stainless steel, brass, and aluminum. The finest buffing compound is Jewelers rouge a.k.a. red rouge and can be used to produce a mirror like finish on gold, silver, sterling, platinum, and brass. |
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| BUFFING SPEED AND PRESSURE |
| The correct pressure must be applied to the workpiece to provide the best finish economically and safely. |
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| Inadequate pressure will give NO buffing action |
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| Excessive pressure will cause the buffing wheel to slow down or actually collapse. This can also result in burn marks on the workpiece. |
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| BUFF RUNNING SPEEDS |
For best results your wheel should maintain a surface speed of between 1200 & 2500 Speed in Meter Per Minute. (SMPM). The higher your speed, the better and quicker your results.
Formula for calculating surface speed of wheel in SMPM.
SMPM = 3,1416 x diameter of Wheel x RPM (revs of spindle per min.)
Therefore an : 3,1416 x 0,2 mt. (dia. of wheel 200 mm.) x 3600 RPM = 2280 SMPM.
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| Spindle speeds can be increased by a step pulley on a motor shaft. |
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